The Vineyard at Stockcross

Oddly, there's actually no vineyard here at Stockcross, instead it takes its name and inspiration from proprietor Sir Peter Michael's winery in California. But there's a dramatic steel 'grapevine' balustrade that wraps its way around the bright, stylish, split-level dining room, to offer a nod to this contemporary hotel's personality. And there are also two dazzling wine lists; one magnificent tome devoted appropriately to California, the other volume takes on the rest of the world. However, this little slice of California in the Berkshire countryside is nothing if not individual, mixing the contemporary with a dash of country-house décor, and, its ultimate jewel in the crown, the platform for renowned chef John Campbell's inspired modern cuisine. Opulence reigns at this plush modern venue, though it's not over the top, with calming colours and a pleasing sense of space. Art and sculpture are another important facet of The Vineyard experience, as demonstrated by the contemporary 'Fire and Water' sculpture outside, which makes a dramatic statement, especially at night, with its flaming torches set on a large pond. Public areas provide the backdrop for a fine art collection, and there are two comfortable lounges for aperitifs or coffee. Service is expectedly slick and professional but with a friendly touch, while dining tables are attractively set in homage to John Campbell's poised, contemporary and striking cooking. Campbell's style is based on the state-of-the-art scientific approach, delivering an exciting blend of flavours, textures and top-notch ingredients. So expect innovative and visually striking dishes to thrill the palate and senses on crisply-scripted menus; think John Dory with clam risotto, or perhaps beef fillet slow-cooked with braised rib and beetroot, and to finish, perhaps 'jelly and ice cream' (port, coffee and Muscovado).

M4 junct 13/A34 Newbury bypass southbound, take 3rd exit signed Hungerford/Bath road interchange. Take 2nd exit at 1st and 2nd rdbts signed Stockcross, 0.6 mile on right
Nearest station: Newbury

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