The Ledbury

The upbeat offering from Nigel Platts-Martin and Philip Howard (who together also own The Square in Mayfair, see entry) has a smart, refined vibe, and is set in the heart of residential Notting Hill. The interior is contemporary, sophisticated and luxurious, with cream leather chairs alongside long dark curtains and polished-wood floors. Tables are relatively closely set, but the room doesn't feel cramped, helped by a clever use of mirrors and floor-to-ceiling windows. In summer, a terrace provides a great space for alfresco dining with tables covered by parasols and a canopy. Service is professional and attentive without being stuffy or overbearing. The accomplished, sophisticated cooking from Philip Howard protégé, Oz-born Brett Graham, delivers high technical skill through modern dishes underpinned by a classical French theme and prime seasonal ingredients, with dazzling visual presentation, interesting combinations and textures to the fore. Peripherals like breads, amuse-bouche, pre-desserts and petits fours are all top form, while the fixed-price repertoire of lunch (great value), carte and eight-course tasting option are partnered by a high-class wine list. Expect the likes of roast sea bass served with potato gnocchi, pickled onions and a smoked butter emulsion, or perhaps loin of roe deer partnered by chervil and parsley root, Douglas fir and pepper.

5 min walk along Talbot Rd from Portobello Rd, on corner of Talbot and Ledbury Rd
Nearest station: Westbourne Park, Notting Hill Gate

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