5 North Street

This understated little eatery in the heart of Winchcombe is one of the Cotswolds' gourmet gems. Tucked away behind a mellow-stone shop-front, there is an intimate, split-level interior, simple and pared back, with wooden beams and bare tables, and oozing with rustic charm. The friendly service creates a relaxed atmosphere. Marcus Ashenford's cooking is clean-cut in style and delightfully simple, but delivering wonderful flavours without pretension. Focusing on quality ingredients and high skill, combinations are interesting, seasonality is well respected and flavours are prominent. Expect a modern approach underpinned by a classical French foundation, the sensibly compact, fixed-price menus bolstered by a ten-course taste option or seven-course gourmet menu (wife Kate, who heads-up front-of-house, is always at hand to explain individual courses). Begin with pan-fried mackerel perhaps, served with warm piccalilli, aubergine purée, salt cod beignet and watercress, before moving on to line-caught sea bass with ceps, leeks, grapes, razor clams and vanilla sauce. Round things off with warm plum frangipane tart with bay leaf ice cream and caramel sauce, or the intriguing presentation of caramel.

7m from Cheltenham
Nearest station: Cheltenham

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