Morgan M

The small, unassuming, frosted-glass frontage seems perfectly in keeping with the restrained elegance of chef-patron Morgan Meunier's highly intimate, neighbourhood eatery. The square room sports a richer new look, with walls decorated in plush burgundy and wood panels, while white linen cloths and simple, but elegant table appointments complete the upbeat tone. Service is predictably very French, polished and attentive, while Morgan circulates tables at the end of service with style and good humour. His is real French cooking, technically highly adept while using superb-quality seasonal ingredients, with lots of produce brought in fresh from France and cooked with true passion. Think roasted fillet of turbot with petit farci of crab, carrot and ginger risotto and a light carrot jus, or perhaps roasted Anjou squab pigeon, with parsnip purée, braised pear and crispy pepper potato in a red wine jus, while a signature dark chocolate fondant with mandarin sorbet, orange and olive oil sauce and a Grand Marnier drink might catch the eye at dessert. Morgan's intelligently compact carte comes bolstered by his signature six-course tasting option (including a superb vegetarian alternative), while the wine list takes an unsurprisingly, predominantly patriotically French line. Lunch may be a quieter affair but offers super value.

Nearest station: Highbury and Islington

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