Chez Bruce

The position overlooking Wandsworth Common is nice enough, the location on a parade of shops is perfectly pleasant with planters full to bursting with vegetation. But nothing is ordinary about Chez Bruce: Bruce Poole has created a restaurant of conviction and confidence. The ground-floor is an uncluttered room where the neutral tones on the walls, dark-wood floor, tables clad in white linen, soft lighting and collection of simple prints on the walls create an unpretentious and comfortable space. The room is not the star. Diners go straight to table - there is no space for a bar area - and the service is informed, attentive and relaxed. The menu is equally to the point - no tasting menus or flame throwers at the tables here - just a fixed-price carte of a sensible length. The foundation is classical and provincial French cooking where humble ingredients are not ignored, the seasons are duly followed, but inspiration also comes from farther a field. Skill is evident when it comes to giving the fine produce room to breathe, balancing flavours, and in the sheer technical ability of the team. Start with warm smoked eel with crab mayonnaise, potato pancake, beetroot remoulade and herbs, before main-course glazed and stuffed pig's trotter with creamed potatoes and Madeira. Desserts are equally well made and can be as simple as crème brûlée or lemon tart, while the cheeseboard is a treat worth saving room for.

Near Wandsworth Common station
Nearest station: Wandsworth Common/Balham

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