Arbutus Restaurant

The ex-Putney Bridge restaurant duo of Anthony Demetre and Will Smith have certainly hit the ground running with their universally acclaimed Soho newcomer ever since its opening back in 2006. An unassuming dark-grey frontage with plenty of glass picks this high-achiever out from the crowd at the Soho Square end of bustling Frith Street. Inside is understated; cool, calm and neutral, with colours dominated by creams and dark browns, while the atmosphere is relaxed and informal and white-tablecloth free in the style of the bistro moderne. The U-shaped dining room has bar-seating too, while service (with Will Smith out front) is friendly but slick and polished, yet not overbearing in anyway. Anthony Demetre's modern bistro cooking has obvious pedigree, the style intelligently simple, highly skilled, imaginative and innovative, with a shopping-list of more humble ingredients also helping to elevate it above the crowd. Flavours are clear and confident, combinations well judged; take a saddle of rabbit with shoulder cottage pie, golden carrots and mustard sauce, or perhaps a vanilla cheesecake served with blueberries. Top-drawer breads, a sensible pricing structure and a cleverly constructed wine list - with wines also available by 250ml carafe - bolster a class act.

Exit Tottenham Court Road tube station, turn left into Oxford St. Left onto Soho St, cross over or continue around Soho Sq, restaurant is on Frith St 25m on right
Nearest station: Tottenham Court Road

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