Number One, The Balmoral

The magnificent Edwardian Balmoral Hotel, with its landmark clock tower, is right in the heart of the city. The vast entrance hall reveals it as a building on a grand scale and the quality of the refurbishment sets it apart in the city - this is a hotel of considerable class. There is a Roman-style health spa, champagne bar, a light and bright brasserie called Hadrians, and the star culinary attraction: Number One restaurant. The basement room where Jeff Bland and his team produce refined and assured modern Scottish cuisine is a chic space styled by Olga Polizzi, with red and gold dominating, a rich pile carpet, modern art and well spaced, immaculately set tables giving a sense of comfort and timeless sophistication. Service is formal, slick and engaging. Scottish produce is prominent on the menus, the ideas and preparations classically inspired and interpreted in a modern way. Haddock fish cake and blue cheese fritter are two canapés showing some wit before a starter of Isle of Skye scallops with artichokes and spiced lentils, and main-course fillet of halibut - perfectly cooked - with lemon pommes mousseline, fresh asparagus tips and brown shrimps. Apple tarte Tatin is a modern version with spiced apple jelly, walnuts and vanilla ice cream, each element beautifully made and well considered. Jackets must be worn, although you can leave your tie at home.

Hotel at E end of Princes St, next to Waverley station
Nearest station: Waverley

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