Carlton Riverside

Now home to the friendly and enthusiastic Gilchrists (the husband-and-wife team previously at Carlton House), this small, character, three-storey restaurant with rooms is set right beside the river bridge in the centre of town. The stylish, intimate restaurant combines quality contemporary fabrics and furnishings with the charm of the house and river views. It's all very soothing, with comforts provided by high-backed chocolate-brown leather chairs and cream napery, and the diligent and attentive service of Alan Gilchrist. Wife Mary Ann looks after the cooking, her confident, one-women act undertaken with panache, underlining her obvious passion and talent. Her fixed-price menus (the Chef's Menu a no-choice affair, while the Irfon Menu offers a compact selection) make a virtue of simplicity, the wonderful straightforward approach driven by stunningly fresh, local seasonal produce. It's honest with no gimmicks, and everything is full of flavour and perfectly timed. Take a roast cannon of Irfon Valley lamb served with a courgette, aubergine and tomato timbale, poached asparagus, crushed Jersey Royals and sauce Paloise, and to finish, perhaps a vanilla pannacotta with red-fruit jelly and blueberry and raspberry compôte.

Town Centre beside the bridge

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