Odette's

The partnership of Vince Power, music promoter and nightclub owner, and Bryn Williams, chef and Welshman, has revitalised the sleeping giant that is Odette's. Just what Primrose Hill needed. The décor by designer Shaun Clarkson has a stylish 'boudoir' vibe going on, which means floral wallpaper, yellow leather chairs, exposed brick and numerous little artistic touches, plus there's a slick bar and a conservatory where the combination of skylights and mirrors creates a light-and-airy space. Service is efficient and effective but relaxed, while the kitchen shows its pedigree with Williams' technically assured, light, well-balanced modern cooking. Unfussy presentation, clear flavours and a focus on quality seasonal ingredients - including produce from his native Wales - make this more than just a neighbourhood restaurant. Fixed-price menus include a six-course tasting option (one for vegetarians as well) and a good value, mid-week, early-evening set menu. Pan-fried hand-dived scallops come as a starter with butternut squash purée, chestnut and apple, while main-course pan-fried line-caught turbot is served with braised oxtail and cockles. Finish with pear and almond crumble with star anise ice cream and port reduction.

Telephone for directions
Nearest station: Chalk Farm. By Primrose Hill.

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