Ynyshir Hall

This charming, white-painted Tudor manor house hideaway, set in 14 acres of glorious gardens amid the splendour of the Dovey estuary and once owned by Queen Victoria as a shooting lodge, offers one of Wales' great gastronomic and country-house experiences. The original 1,000-acre estate that surrounds the hotel is now an RSPB reserve, while Ynyshir's gardens are ablaze with azaleas and rhododendrons in spring, and the drive is flanked by sequoia and Wellingtonia trees. An intimate retreat of high quality, though there's a modern twist on the country-house theme here, with a bold and vibrant colour scheme and walls adorned with bright canvasses. The restaurant is the epitome of a country-house dining room, small and decked out with crisp linen and comfortable high-backed chairs, while offering views over the garden. Head chef Shane Hughes' cooking oozes pedigree, his modern approach underpinned by classical French technique and driven by high quality seasonal Welsh produce, including herbs and vegetables from Ynyshir's walled garden. His innovative, creative, sharp cooking allows flavours to shine in dishes like braised pork ballotine served with Cardigan Bay lobster and a wild garlic and spiced aromatic consommé, or monkfish and mushroom tortellini with butternut squash, lemon and chervil, and to finish, perhaps a wild berry soufflé accompanied by bay leaf ice cream.

On A487, 6m S of Machynlleth
Nearest station: Machynlleth

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