Ullinish Country Lodge

Set at the end of a track amid some of Scotland's most dramatic scenery (lochs on three sides and breathtaking views of the Black Cuillins and MacLeod's Tables), Ullinish Lodge is a haven of peace and tranquillity and boasts the celebrated Samuel Johnson and James Boswell among former guests. Unsurprisingly, the interior has a country-house feel, with a peaceful lounge and efficient, pleasant service. Tables in the wood-panelled dining room feature pristine white linen against a backdrop of tartan carpet and curtains, the intimate atmosphere heightened by candlelight. The chef's modern approach - underpinned by classical roots - is driven by the freshest quality produce from the abundant local larder, with fish and seafood from the surrounding waters, and meat and game from the hills. High technique, passion, a light touch, clean-cut flavours, clever and interesting combinations and striking presentation set the taste-buds soaring on a sensibly compact, fixed-price repertoire. A light lunch is served, but it's dinner that really cranks up the ante on the culinary front and shows the kitchen's true credentials. Take Mallaig turbot for instance, perhaps poached in red wine and served with spinach, pomme purée, duck en crepinette and a vinaigrette of smoked bacon and ketchup, and to finish, maybe a soufflé of local blueberries served with vanilla and blueberry ripple ice cream and a lemonade shot.

9m S of Dunvegan on A863

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