An impeccably smart, modern restaurant with rooms has been fashioned from this 16th-century inn plumb in the middle of East Anglia, the exposed brickwork and beamed partitions still bearing witness to the building's venerable age. Bowls of citrus fruits make an interesting table adornment, and the house cooking style is a welcome blend of simplicity and quality. That might be manifested in the forms of silky-smooth chicken liver parfait with cranberry chutney and crusty bread, followed perhaps by crisp-skinned sea bass with fettuccine, while winter diners might be glad of the sustaining heartiness of a main course of oxtail braised in red wine. Finish with agreeably rich chocolate mousse laced with Kirsch-soaked cherries, topped with crème fraîche, or bread-and-butter pudding served with mango coulis.