Crossways

Crossways, a Georgian house below the South Downs Way, was at one time the home of Elizabeth David's parents, and foodies can pay their respects to the writer as her grave is a short distance away. A monthly-changing four-course dinner is served in the small and comfortable dining room, with its private party vibe created in part by relaxed service from the proprietors. The well-balanced menu could kick off with seafood pancake, or smoked duck and Asian pear salad, with a soup of the day to follow. Main courses reflect the kitchen's straightforward, uncluttered approach to its output - perhaps game pie in a rich gravy - and sauces and garnishes are well considered: wild mushroom sauce for sautéed loin of local venison, say, mango, ginger and cranberry for roast breast of Gressingham duck, and a maple glaze for pork tenderloin in a parmesan crumb coating.