The Restaurant at Tewin Bury Farm

Only 25 miles north of London, in the Hertfordshire countryside, this idiosyncratic hotel is set in nearly 500 acres of farmland near the wee River Mimram. The complex of converted barns has been interior-designed with a light modern touch, seen at its best in the restaurant, where natural wood is all around you, including the stacks of logs for the wood-fired oven. Vegetables and herbs are grown on-site, and the waters of the estate provide fine trout, which is simply grilled and served with crayfish butter. Presentations are as modish as can be, so the trend-conscious starter of beetroot and goats' cheese comprises a jelly and ice cream of the former, and mousse and tempura-battered version of the latter. Main course might see a hunk of monkfish wrapped in seaweed and served in a Thai-seasoned broth with crayfish and chilli wontons, and for dessert perhaps a contemporary reimagining of banana split, with mini-fritters of banana, chocolate fudge fondant and banana ice cream.