In the heart of the Lake District, on the edge of Ullswater, Leeming House is a gracious, 200-year-old manor with a traditional approach to the grande-luxe country-hotel experience. Formal service from a highly proficient team in the prettily appointed Regency restaurant raise expectations that the cooking strives to match. A starter of rare wood pigeon with assertively cured local bacon and pea purée might be followed by guinea fowl with morels, mash and garlic cream, or poached halibut in spring vegetable broth with asparagus. Indulgent desserts take in rice pudding with cherries and almond ice cream, or white chocolate tart with raspberry and vanilla 'cannelloni'.