The Hambrough

Perched above the esplanade at Ventnor, The Hambrough is a smart Victorian villa turned sybaritic boutique hotel with uplifting views out to sea across the harbour. With Robert Thompson at the culinary helm, however, the place has established itself as the island's premier foodie address. A classy makeover has brought in a light and airy look of neutral refinement to the two front-facing rooms that comprise the restaurant, without detracting from their period character or those watery scenes stretching far beyond the bay windows. Robert Thompson made his name with immaculately-executed, labour-intensive modern French dishes inspired by the surrounding landscape, and here that means splendid produce hauled in from the local farms and fishing boats, as well as further afield. A signature pressing of lightly-smoked eel with foie gras, pork belly and Granny Smith apple served with celeriac remoulade and toasted brioche is typical of the full-throated flavours and rich textures on offer. Next out, roasted loin of New Forest venison might star in a perfectly-judged composition with snails, roast parsley root and field mushroom purée, and garlic and parsley butter. Puddings are equally intelligent combinations such as tarte Tatin of Pink Lady apples matched with cassia ice cream. On the wine front, there's more than ample choice by the glass, and intelligent global coverage by the bottle.