Forss House Hotel

Built as a private home in 1810, Forss House is surrounded by 20 acres of woodland and overlooks the river from which it takes its name; small wonder, then, that it's a popular base for anglers and game sportsmen. The restaurant is a high-ceilinged room with large portraits and an elegant fireplace; seats are comfortable, with shoulder-height backs, and staff add to a sense of well-being. Modern Scottish cooking is the name of the game, and dishes demonstrate that a confident, experienced team is at the stoves. A starter of scallop and lobster raviolo comes with the pasta on a bed of spinach, the shellfish on top in a rich bisque, all the flavours working in harmony. There could also be a soup - perhaps sweetcorn - followed by roast medallions of venison, cooked pink, sitting on roast salsify with a mini pie of minced meat and a dollop of beetroot fondant, with monkfish with crushed potatoes and olives a fishy alternative. To finish, a perfectly made, intensely flavoured banana soufflé is served with rum and raisin ice cream.