The Crab at Chieveley

The name is a bit of a giveaway: this restaurant with rooms in the Berkshire Downs deals in seafood. Fishing nets and a variety of shells adorning the beamed ceiling in the cosy restaurant hit the point home, while the walls are hung with vivid artwork. Dishes are notable for their well-defined flavours, modern presentation and accurate timing. Crab inevitably appears, perhaps in ravioli with fennel and shellfish gratin, alongside another starter of pan-fried king scallops with curried cod brandade and saffron mayo. The tip-top quality of raw ingredients is evident in main courses too, from a mixed seafood platter to pan-fried John Dory with crab pithivier. Meat-eaters aren't overlooked, with rabbit terrine, accompanied by pickled carrot and beetroot relish, among the starters, followed perhaps by rump of lamb with tapenade and stuffed peppers. Service is from a young and enthusiastic team.