The Bell at Skenfrith

The Bell has everything going for it - it sits at the side of the bridge over the River Monnow in the verdant embrace of Welsh hills, with the atmospheric ruins of Skenfrith Castle just an arrow's flight away. The 17th-century coaching inn has been turned into a rustic-chic restaurant with rooms, with Welsh slate floors, original oak beams, squashy sofas and tasteful fabrics in abundance. But it is the seriously good cooking that grabs the attention. The kitchen's heart beats to the rhythm of the seasons, building its output on local produce (suppliers are all duly name-checked) and materials picked fresh from the inn's organic kitchen garden - a serious set-up that supplies rather more than the odd bit of salad. Ham hock ravioli with spinach, tomato, parsley and poached egg yolk is a typically well-conceived starter, while main courses range from Welsh breed pork loin and confit belly served with boulangère potatoes, apples and Savoy cabbage, crackling, and sage jus, to bacon-wrapped roast monkfish with butter bean blanquette, cabbage, lardons and white wine cream sauce. Finish with the refinement of lemon verbena custard slice with filo wafers and verbena granité. A large walk-in wine cellar and award-winning wine list overflows with interesting stuff.