The Bath Priory Hotel, Restaurant & Spa

A major part of the appeal of the Bath Priory is its fabulous location in four acres of magnificently maintained gardens just a short stroll from the historic centre of Bath. The Regency Gothic mansion is an equally opulent oasis within, all deep sofas, artworks on the walls and French Belle Epoque chandeliers. However, if food is foremost in your mind, a rather more crucial element is the fact that its kitchen is overseen by executive chef Michael Caines MBE, one of the top flight of country-house chefs working in the UK today. Caines also presides over culinary operations at Gidleigh Park (see entry, Chagford, Devon) and brings the same elaborate, high-art take on contemporary French cuisine to the output of the Bath Priory, realised by the white-hot technical skills of chef Sam Moody. Beginning with basics, West Country ingredients are hunted down assiduously, with much of the fresh veg coming from the hotel's own kitchen garden. The cooking is thoughtful, innovative and highly engineered, using bags of modern technique and technology, but stopping short of science-class techno-overkill. Start with cannelloni of Scottish langoustines with sauce vierge and shellfish bisque, or a caramelised boudin of local pheasant with apple compôte and a game consommé. Among main courses, turbot is poached in truffle butter and served with braised beef cheek, duxelle and ceps sauce. Meals end with a flourish, perhaps praline soufflé with praline ice cream.