Bedford Hotel

The Bedford, a castellated stone property of some age, is full of appeal for its quaint old charm and timeless elegance. The dining room befits the style: it's elegant and lofty, with high-backed chairs, crisp napery and willing staff, all contributing to a sense of occasion. Excellent produce and uncluttered cooking underlie the kitchen's efforts, producing a mightily effective seafood risotto to start, then moist breast of guinea fowl stuffed with apricots and chestnuts accompanied by black pudding, chicory and parsnip mash. Alternatively, savour the piquancy of the East with baked sea bass in lemongrass and ginger sauce with wilted pak choi, and end with something like vanilla pannacotta or a choice of West Country cheeses.