The George Hotel & Brasserie

The George is an unusual combination of portico, redbrick and half-timbering. It's been a coaching inn since Victorian times, so the cool, up-to-date look of the brasserie, with its polished wooden tables and metal bar, comes as a bit of a surprise. The kitchen at times homes in on some classics from the continent, with mixed antipasti followed by coq au vin with dauphinoise potatoes, for instance, or steak au poivre. Clearly due consideration is given to the balance of dishes, producing a starter of mushroom fricassée on toasted olive bread with a runny duck egg and hollandaise, then pan-fried whiting and crayfish with shellfish sauce and crushed potatoes. Puddings are successful, judging by warm apple tart with espresso ice cream, and vanilla cheesecake with mango sorbet.