The Queens is a late-Georgian building right in the heart of St Ives, just a short stroll from the harbour and beaches. A recent refurbishment has refocused the team's efforts on the food - although they are very clear that this is a 'pub, not a restaurant', and there's a large well-stocked bar and a pool table to prove it. The atmosphere is laidback and relaxed throughout - bare tables, sofas, floorboards - with friendly, attentive service and a short menu chalked up on boards. The cooking is purposeful and achieves exactly what it sets out to do, with quality local produce in simply constructed and accurately cooked dishes: there's nothing superfluous here, just good gutsy flavours. Maybe start with a good rustic dish of pork bubble and squeak, hog's pudding and poached egg, and follow that with stone bass with tomato, saffron and mussel fondue. Finish with a classic like apple crumble with homemade vanilla ice. Sunday lunch is very popular here.