Sam's of Brighton

Sam Metcalfe's second Brighton eaterie (see also Sam's of Sevendials) is just off the seafront on the Kemp Town side of town. It's a buzzy room done in neutral tones, where a seasonally-based menu brings in good southcoast seafood, as well as South Downs lamb and regional cheeses. Start in east Asian mode with a serving of seared tuna seasoned with pink peppercorns and nori, alongside fennel and apple salad and wasabi dressing, to lead the way to roast breast and confit leg of guinea-fowl on creamed cabbage, or a braised piece of that lamb shoulder, with a stew of merguez sausages and Puy lentils and salsa verde. Puddings might include homely rhubarb and pear crumble with vanilla and ginger ice cream.