Montrose Restaurant

A narrow-fronted residence built in the late Victorian era tempts us in with dramatically lit interiors in the grand domestic style of the time, all high ceilings, chandeliers and ornate fabrics. The industrious kitchen goes to the lengths of in-house butchery and bread making in pursuit of a dynamic style of modern cooking that really delivers. Salt and paprika calamari with aïoli might precede a main-course assiette of pork (tenderloin, five spiced belly and dumplings), served with a purée of caramelised apple and Calvados, as well as shards of crunchy crackling. Finish with banana tarte Tatin and rum and raisin ice cream. Wine is taken very seriously here, and there is an alluring pedigree list to go at.