Housed in a building that dates from the 15th century, Topes is marinated in history. Dickens mentioned the place in his last novel, The Mystery of Edwin Drood, and its venerable beams, and narrow stairs climbing to the kitchen and dining room attest to its antiquity. The décor, however, takes a more contemporary line, using high-backed chairs and starched white linen to provide a smart contrast. Chef-patron Chris Small's accomplished modern British cooking owes much to the superb quality of Kentish produce, with due credit given to suppliers. A great value lunch could get under way with a terrine of ham, parsley and rabbit, served with fig chutney and walnut bread, and move on to a classic braised lamb shank with creamed potato and red cabbage. Turn up for dinner and the main event might be a more involved idea that sees slow-roast pork belly sharing a plate with a pork croquette, apple and chestnut purée, sweet-and-sour carrots, Puy lentils, pine nuts and black pudding. To finish, how about fig tarte Tatin with honey, fig and walnut ice cream?>