Having played a key role in getting Lord Nelson and Lady Hamilton together back in the 1790s, this handsome coaching dates from the 15th-century but presents a Georgian face to the world. It's been done up inside, too, and these days sports a contemporary finish amid the period details. There are low beams and real ale on tap in the trad bar, whilst the restaurant and its conservatory extension (overlooking the garden) are decidedly à la mode; that means a copper-covered ceiling, light oak furniture and floorboards, sand-blasted exposed brickwork, burgundy-coloured leather seating, quirky lighting, that sort of thing. Likewise the food has a somewhat contemporary sheen, and is broadly British with local ingredients taking centre stage. Start with terrine of smoked mackerel with trout and saffron new potatoes before loin of venison with chestnut purée and spiced pears. Finish with a treacle and orange tart with clotted cream.