Airds Hotel and Restaurant

Airds is a whitewashed 18th-century ferry inn that in a former life put up farmers and livestock on their way to market. In its current incarnation as a sophisticated country-house hotel, it is small and intimate enough to feel homely, but run with consummate professionalism and high standards of service, and furnished in opulent style. Unforgettable views from the dining room sweep across the Sound of Lismore to Loch Linnhe and the Morven Mountains beyond - a jaw-dropping tableau to accompany four-course dinners. The kitchen is a vital part of the show, with chef Paul Burns turning out confident French-inflected contemporary dishes that have a good sense of Scottish terroir. Fish and seafood comes fresh from the Oban fleet, and all ingredients are outstanding and chosen for seasonality. A cappuccino of mushrooms and thyme might start you off, then pan-seared Mull scallops with mushroom, parmesan and herb risotto come along before a choice of main course. That might be the light touch of citrus-grilled local halibut in a light mussel and pea broth, or a more robust roast fillet of Scotch beef with garden kale, onion marmalade and Pommery mustard sauce. Finish with a classic prune and Armagnac soufflé with crème anglaise. Vegetarians are not sidelined either: they get their own four-course menu. For such a small operation, the wine list punches well above its weight, and politely unstuffy service is the icing on the cake.