Large windows looking over the street are a bit of a giveaway that this used to be a shop, but its décor is now every inch that of a restaurant, with a wooden floor, tall leather-look seats at clothed tables, candlelight and table lamps at night giving a cosy glow, and a warm and inviting atmosphere. At the back is a leafy, partially covered patio, a popular spot for summer dining. The kitchen puts a modern gloss on a broadly European repertoire, turning out beef tartare with deep-fried bone marrow, and smoked haddock ravioli with pancetta and a carbonara foam. Said foam may also appear in a main course as an embellishment to a pavé of sea bass with mushroom linguine, and the same attention to flavours can be seen in salsa verde adding depth to herb-crusted rack of lamb with Jerusalem artichoke purée. A handful of puddings may offer caramel pannacotta with mascarpone sorbet.