The main part of Orton Hall was built in 1835 by the Huntly family, who also planted a number of specimen trees on the 20-acre estate and after whom the restaurant is named. It's a welcoming, traditionally decorated room, with some period stained glass and oak panelling, the backdrop for seasonally-changing menus that are very much of our times. Venison medallions with bitter chocolate sauce sounds familiar enough nowadays, but a touch of the Med is found in grilled sea bass on squid ink tagliatelle with vegetable dressing. A samosa of curried ham hock and pear with a mustardy pickle can set the taste buds tingling to start, and sweet desserts are often given a zap of sharpness: lime cream with butterscotch mousse, say, or posset layered with lemon and quince.