Cotswold88 Hotel

Whilst the rather grand Cotswold-stone exterior makes a reassuringly traditional first impression, what lies behind the timeless façade is a myriad of bold designer flourishes and a cornucopia of luxuriant furnishings. This is a boutique hotel and no mistake. The dining room goes for a black, white and red theme, and stripes - lots of stripes - whilst the crisp white linen-clad, smartly laid tables reflect the serious intent that lurks behind the playfulness of the décor. A canapé of miniature fish and chips show that a bit of fun is not out of the question, but notice the fabulous quality of the fish. The Eighty Eight Room is chef Lee Scott's domain and he turns out confident modern dishes that showcase his acute technical skills. Caramelised veal sweetbreads, for example, come with a cassonade of Herefordshire snails, roast garlic and parsley velouté in a first course which is rich and earthy but light and full of flavour. Next up, perhaps wild Cornish sea bass - a beautiful piece of fish, cooked to a tee - with chorizo and squid 'bolognaise', followed by 88 apple pie mousse with green apple sorbet. There's a tasting menu if you want to push the boat out, and the terrace serves up some delectable views over the Cotswold Hills.