The 17th-century malthouse in a Cotswold village lying between Stow-on-the-Wold and Burford is now a modern but rustically appealing country inn. Comfy sofas and an inglenook fireplace are what people want to see in such settings, and neither does the expansively friendly service disappoint. Kevin Barrett's cooking looks the part too, displaying a modern understanding of precision and impact without departing too far from the country-pub context. Smoked Brixham haddock with a poached egg and curried potato will set the ball rolling nicely, as might seared pigeon breast with radish and lovage from the garden. Mains bring on Gloucestershire Old Spot pork shoulder and cheek, with classic trimmings of home-made black pudding and apple purée, while the reward for clearing your plate may well be a chunk of ginger parkin with pear compôte and anise cream. Cask-conditioned ales and over two dozen wines by the glass complete the picture.