Aubergine at the Compleat Angler

Close to the picturesque culinary hotspot of Marlow and right on the banks of the River Thames next to Marlow Weir, looms large the luxurious Macdonald Compleat Angler. The fine-dining restaurant - Aubergine - flies the flag for the former Chelsea stalwart (now renamed 11 Park Walk), where one Mr Ramsay made his name. The colour scheme of purples and olive is not overegged - this is a chic space with a window into the kitchen creating its own little bit of theatre. The menu is broadly modern European but there are a few traditional touches along the way such as a silver carving trolley serving daily roasts, as well as an impressive cheese board. On both the à la carte and six-course tasting menu high end ingredients rub shoulders with cheaper cuts; starters, for example, might go from tortellini of native lobster with cauliflower two ways and lobster butter sauce to the more humble, but no less impressive, crispy pig's head and potato salad. Best end of Lune Valley lamb comes with a caramelised garlic purée and hasselback potatoes. Soufflés are a signature pud, be they flavoured with clementine and paired with chocolate, or a beautifully risen banana version served with a rich toffee ice cream.