Old Bell Hotel

The Old Bell lays claim to being the longest-serving hotel in England, having been built for purpose in the early years of Henry III's reign (the early 13th century, that is). It'll soon be celebrating its 800th anniversary. Its venerability modestly disguised behind a layer of wisteria, it is an effortlessly charming place, with a rather grand dining room adding to the sense of occasion. Smartly attired staff are well-versed in the courtesies. Only the possible shock of old-fashioned cooking could spoil the ship, but fear not. Here are ham hock and foie gras terrine with mulled wine jelly, spiced prune purée and chocolate salt, followed by brioche-crusted langoustine and turbot with courgette fricassée, fennel and pink grapefruit sauce. These ambitious dishes are rendered with enthusiasm and some flair, before desserts bring you gently down to terra firma with chocolate fondant, tiramisù and mandarin pannacotta.