Malmaison Manchester

A distinctive corner site in the city centre is the setting for this stylish outpost of the mod Mal chain. Moody lighting and a red and black décor give character to the lobby, while a relaxed and friendly atmosphere informs the brasserie, with its wooden floor and banquette seating. The kitchen makes commendable use of local ingredients, turning them into a starter of Lancaster smoked trout with beetroot salad and a main course of confit of Goosnargh duck leg with pomme purée and lentil jus. French brasserie favourites are here too, among them onion soup, tartiflette and Toulouse sausages. Puddings spring from both sides of the Channel: prune and Armagnac tart, say, or apple pie with custard.