Malmaison Edinburgh

The first of the Malmaison boutique brand, Edinburgh's Mal is in a renovated seamen's mission on the Forth in the old part of Leith. It's a perfect spot as the dockyards have been overhauled to house restaurants and bars aplenty so there's a buzzy vibe about the place. The brasserie is a dark, masculine space with dark brown seating and ornate ironwork, deep red walls, bold artwork, unclothed tables and candles, and overlooks the Port of Leith (there's outdoor eating on the cards when the weather allows). East Lothian ingredients turn up in trademark brasserie classics served in generous portions; Welch's smoked haddock and wild leek tart to start perhaps, before venison and heather ale pie with buttered romaine, or pork noisette with Armagnac and prunes. Save room for open rhubarb tartlet with honeycomb crust and vanilla crème fraîche.