Fish on the Green

It may be set on the green of an affluent, quintessentially English inland village, but there's nothing la-di-da about this cosy little restaurant housed in a converted stable block. The unpretentious, modish, white-linen-free zone reinforces the seafood theming with its oak flooring, cream leather chairs and whitewashed brick walls hung with colourful sea-focused artworks. Expect simple treatment (hurrah!) and balanced flavours that allow the main act to shine. Thus Dover sole comes with béarnaise sauce and fine green beans and buttered Nicola potatoes, or go for pan-fried fillet of halibut with brown shrimp mash, baby leeks and lobster sauce.