Fredrick's Hotel Restaurant Spa

In the same family ownership for over 30 years, Fredrick's is tucked away in well-maintained grounds, the kind of place where they close the gates at night against the outside world. The ambience inside is one of glossy, high-class formality, with patio dining on summer evenings and a team of skilled, attentive staff running on rails. The kitchen's stock-in-trade is adventurous reinterpretations of classic British and French dishes, in an arc that takes in coconut-foamed mulligatawny with langoustines and lemongrass, glazed skate wing with smoked razor clams and pickled fennel, and braised beef with horseradish pannacotta. Dishes are presented with a good deal of contemporary panache, all the way through to a version of baklava, served in eastern Med style with saffron yoghurt and pistachio ice cream.