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La Bécasse

17 Corve Street, LUDLOW, SY8 1DA

These premises, on one of Ludlow's principal thoroughfares, have been part of the town's emergence to culinary greatness since the beginning of the last decade. Once home to Hibiscus, prior to its move to the West End of London, it became in 2007 a player in Alan Murchison's squad, as the chef-patron of L'Ortolan expanded his operations into a range of classy venues across the country. Here in Ludlow, the restaurant inhabits a low-lit, oak-panelled and stone-walled, cocoon-like room with the feeling of a fine-dining grotto. A change of chef and team in January 2014 prevented us from being able to award a rating this time, but what seems certain is that new incumbent Chris O'Halloran will bring the same high degree of creative lustre to the menus as his predecessors did. This is a man whose passion for cooking extends back to a boyhood in which he would greet his Mum home from work with a tray of freshly baked flapjacks. These days, it's a little more elaborate, with inspired, original ideas abounding. Starters encompass a curry-spiced crab and Gruyère quiche, or scallop and sweetcorn with a quail egg in truffled cream sauce. At main course, there's a willingness to explore the arc from modernist to traditional that many chefs have embraced, from cod with chicken wings and snails alongside spinach risotto. Escoffier himself could hardly have taken issue with a deeply intuitive braise of Angus beef, with smoked mash, wild mushrooms, caramelised shallots and foie gras in its own jus. Finish with a homage to rice pudding, copiously adorned with apricots, prunes, cherries and pistachios. Otherwise, look to the trolley for blue-riband cheeses, served with the full array of jellies, crackers, chutneys and fruity bread.

Further information

Tel: 01584 872325
Please quote 'The AA'.
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Open/closed

Open all year.
Days closed: Sun-Mon

Restaurant information

Cooking type: Modern French
Chef: Chris O'Halloran
Number of seats: 40
Accessible for wheelchairs.
Steps for wheelchair: 1
Vegetarian meals available.
Children welcome.
Children's portions.
Parking available.

 
 
La Bécasse, Ludlow

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In town centre opposite Feathers Hotel, at bottom of hill
Nearest station: Ludlow

Local information for SY8 1DA

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