The Pass Restaurant at South Lodge Hotel

The chef's table concept feeds a desire in the 21st-century customer to get to the heart of the action - no mere passive eater, but to feel involved, part of the gang. The Pass restaurant, located in the magnificent Victorian pile that is South Lodge Hotel near Horsham, takes the concept a little further by placing the actual restaurant inside the kitchen, beside the pass (where the food is dressed up before being sent out). And to make sure diners don't miss a thing, there are plasma screens showing the action in greater detail - the flashing of the blades, the sizzling of the pans. The restaurant seats 22 in an über-modern space that fits the bill perfectly: a minimalist look of cream and bold lime green, with darkwood tables, leather banquettes and cool leather seats. The food has no problem living up to expectations: Matt Gillan's menu is full of thrilling ideas executed with precision, each dish based on first-class seasonal produce. Confit salmon, for example, might kick things off, with celeriac, cucumber and passionfruit, or mackerel partnered with smoked eel and onions. Flavours are well judged and the food is presented with considerable style. Gressingham duck comes with butternut squash and lentils, Gigha halibut with baby gem, parsley and langoustine, and to finish, pannacotta, soy sauce and popcorn is a very clever dessert that brings together unexpected flavours in perfect harmony. The Camelia Country Kitchen is the hotel's alternative dining option (see entry).