The Square

Getting to the top is difficult. Staying there is arguably even harder. Philip Howard and Nigel Platts-Martin opened The Square in 1991 and have not looked back. This restaurant has played its part in placing London at the top table of international fine dining, and it has done so by being consistently very, very good. It looks the part, meeting the expectations of the Mayfair address - the frontage of glass (partly frosted to maintain an air of exclusivity) and shiny polished stone is understated and inviting. Once inside, you are in the safe hands of the meticulously attentive service team, where nary a foot is put wrong. With colourful modern art on the walls, well-dressed tables generously spaced across the room, and a polished parquet floor, it is nicely understated. There's a small lounge area if you want to get comfy with an aperitif. Howard's cooking shows pitch-perfect classical French technique, and an instinctive understanding of how ingredients work together, with flavours and textures unforgettably defined in superbly presented dishes. Seasonality and the incomparable quality of ingredients are the building blocks. Sweet and sour consommé surrounds suckling pig ravioli, kohlrabi and trotters on toast in a first course full of balance and flavour, likewise tartare of mackerel with an oyster cream, pickled cucumber, ice lettuce, smoked eel and caviar. Sautéed John Dory with buckwheat gnocchi, caramelised butternut, Jerusalem artichokes and red wine is one way to go at main course, but choice is the hard part here: roast saddle of Lincolnshire hare with tarte fine of celeriac and pear offers stiff competition at main course stage, as does the roast Bresse pigeon with root vegetables confit, rhubarb and Madeira. Go for the tasting menu if the agony of selection is too much for you; there's also a set lunch menu with two choices at each course. Desserts keep pace with it all: raspberry ripple soufflé which is as light as can be, served up with yoghurt ice cream. Classic French heavyweights pepper the wine list, with Burgundy a particular strength.