The Square

Among the supercar showrooms and glossy designer sheen of the Mayfair streets you have to look the part, and The Square pulls off a classy act, pitching its refined style at just the right level without veering into self-absorption. A discreet frosted glass frontage shields its shiny diners from prying eyes and the dining room, with beige and burgundy walls splashed with vivid abstract art and designer mirrors, has tables spaced widely across a buffed parquet floor. Service is impeccable, hospitable and smoothly choreographed. Philip Howard's cooking has climbed a steady trajectory since 1991 when he set up shop with Nigel Platts-Martin after a thorough grounding in big-name kitchens. Founded on classical French technique, the food is bold, daring and exciting without ever losing the plot. Flavour and texture are pursued at all times in elaborately worked dishes that look deceptively effortless. An eight-course tasting menu is the way to go on a big budget, or lunch menus offer staggering value if purse strings are tighter. Three courses at dinner weigh in at £75, but you do get an impressive procession of exquisitely-crafted add-ons - canapés, amuse-bouches, pre-dessert and exemplary breads - and all come with the same wow factor as the main events. An assiette of foie gras with elderflower and orange gives the three ingredients a virtuoso workout, balancing flavours and textures ranging from jelly to purée to terrine and a 1" square miniature club sandwich. A main course shows a solid grasp of what works with what by teaming roast turbot in a sourdough crust with a purée of new season's garlic, chopped morels and parsley velouté. Faultless standards and presentation are maintained through to a dessert of meltingly soft roasted pears served with caramelised wafers, salted caramel foam and dulce de leche ice cream. Those bitten by the Burgundy bug will find heaven in an astonishing wine list brimming with heavyweights from around the world, with a judicious sprinkling of sub-£50 bottles and a seriously expert sommelier to guide the way.

Nearest station: Bond Street, Green Park

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