Sam's Brasserie & Bar

Girders, pillars, exposed pipes and brick walls have all been retained as style features in this conversion of the former Sanderson wallpaper factory. It's a large space, with a mezzanine dining area at the front and a semi-open kitchen at the back with a buzzy bar off to one side. It's easy to see why it's popular and lively: the menus have something to appeal to all comers, from brunchers (grilled steak with a fried egg and hash brown, anyone?) to evening diners. Clean-cut flavours from quality ingredients are characteristic of such starters as smoked salmon and crayfish with a tarragon and celery dressing, or chicken liver parfait with spiced pear chutney, and in mains of roast cod with aïoli and a stew of haricot beans and chorizo, or calves' liver with Lyonnaise potatoes and spinach. Cross the Channel for Armagnac parfait with Agen prunes or the Atlantic for pecan pie.