Morgan M

The green-painted exterior may be reminiscent of a British pub, but Morgan M is a Gallic affair; a personal, individual and intimate restaurant. The single room is not large, but that is a good thing: Morgan Meunier is a chef who wants to a make a connection with his customers via his food. The room is handsomely decorated to look rather like a French parlour, albeit a stylish one, with walls clad in elegant wooden panels, covered in floral wallpaper and painted a rich burgundy. It is a successful mix of old and new, classy and unpretentious. Service from the French team is professional yet relaxed and the chef-patron circulates at the end of service, his enthusiasm and passion is on show but not obtrusive. The seasonally-changing menu is based around French classical cooking with modern ideas and techniques used with restraint and displaying a sure hand. Ravioli of snails in Chablis, poached garlic and red wine jus is a starter of refinement and simplicity, while main-course grilled Anjou squab pigeon comes with the liver of the bird in ravioli, plus glazed baby turnips, poêlée of runner beans and sweet potato purée. There is a six-course tasting menu, plus another vegetarian version, while the wine list is not surprisingly French focused. Imaginative amuse-bouche, good breads and pre-dessert are all well considered and desserts such as apricot soufflé with a coulis of the same fruit and rosemary ice cream completes the picture.

Please telephone for directions
Nearest station: Highbury & Islington

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