Morgan M

From the outside it could be mistaken for a rather smart Islington gastro-pub, but the large frosted glass windows and green-painted exterior conceal a very French affair. Chef-patron Morgan Meunier has created an intimate and personal restaurant with a style not dissimilar to that of a Gallic brasserie, where comfortable green arm chairs and oak floors combine with wood panels and a mix of floral wallpaper and rich burgundy colours to create a warm ambience in the room. The seasonal, modern French menu combines the old and the new with well-defined flavours from luxury French ingredients and food is served by attentive and friendly staff. The chef is especially proud of his renowned six-course tasting menus and there is a high level of skill displayed in the kitchen. Pan-fried foie gras on toasted brioche served with apricot confit and curry and orange sauce is an innovative starter with perfect balance and contrasts, while main-course seared fillet of John Dory, butternut risotto, spinach, parsnip beignet and carrot juice is also a dish with harmonious flavour combinations. The wine list leans heavily towards France and amuse-bouche, breads and pre-dessert confirm the technical skills on display. A passionfruit soufflé and sorbet with crème anglaise rises to the occasion for dessert.

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Nearest station: Highbury & Islington

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