43 Upper Brook Street, LONDON, W1K 7QR
When the Gavroche opened its doors just short of a half-century ago, French gastronomy was still imperfectly grasped on these shores, even among London cognoscenti, and if that picture was transformed, it is in large measure because Albert Roux and, later, his son Michel, never wavered in their commitment to international cooking's ancien régime. It's true there are a few more new-fangled dishes now, but if there were no solid gold tradition, nobody else would know what they were rebelling against. The setting is a serene basement room, run with the kind of punctilious courtesy that is virtually a dead language in London now, and the bill of fare an extended homage to the most rigorous training in excellence. Start with roast scallops in coral crumb with carrots, sauced with yellow Chartreuse, if you're after new directions, and if you're not, look to the old and flawless standbys - the artichoke stuffed with truffled foie gras mousse, the lobster mousseline and caviar in champagne butter. Extraordinary quality in the prime materials is the hallmark of principal dishes like Pyrenean milk-fed lamb with piquillos in minted jus, and roasted T-bone of turbot in chive butter. A Menu Exceptionnel in this context had better do as it promises, and undoubtedly does, all the way to its little pistachio-chocolate gâteau, garnished with bitter chocolate sorbet and dried fruits doused in rum. French and British artisanal cheeses are the best, served with authoritative knowledge, as is the compendious wine list, which will make you kick yourself for not buying a EuroMillions ticket.
Tel: 020 7408 0881
Please quote 'The AA'.
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Days closed: Sun-Mon
Dates closed: Xmas, New Year, BHs
Days closed for lunch: Sat
Cooking type: French
Chef: Michel Roux Jnr
Number of seats: 60
Steps for wheelchair: 30
Vegetarian meals available.
A La Carte Dinner Main Course from: £28.40
Prices are for guidance only. Please check when booking for current rates.