The Sheekey name goes all the way back to 1896, when Josef Sheekey opened his doors to a hungry Victorian public. It has been a haunt of the great and the good for as long as anyone can remember, including theatrical types who ply their trade on the surrounding boards. Inside are a quartet of clubby wood-panelled dining rooms, plus a seafood and oyster bar, and a menu of relatively straightforward fish and shellfish. Start with classic crab bisque with cream and Cognac, or a choice of oysters if you want to keep it simple (West Mersea Natives, for example, when in season). Next up, perhaps a shrimp and scallop burger, curried monkfish and tiger prawns, or roasted mixed shellfish with sea purslane and garlic butter. A-lister's might go for Beluga with blinis and sour cream (£195 for 30g), but everyone can enjoy the comforts of a Yorkshire rhubarb steamed sponge pudding.