You don't have to head to the centre of town (or France for that matter) to get the authentic brasserie experience, not if you're anywhere near Chiswick, where Nick Jones's joint will satisfy your craving. French windows and tables spilling out onto the pavement give a hint of things to come, while inside pewter-topped tables, leather banquettes, patchwork coloured floor tiles and a marble bar give the place an authentic feel and enough of a 21st-century sheen. The all-day menu (breakfast and dinner and all the others in-between) of European dishes fits the surroundings just so. Simplicity and good quality ingredients are the key in main courses such as pork and cider pie, squid with bean relish and pancetta, or chicken paillard with gremolata from the grill section. The wine list has a good global reach.