Hakkasan

The original Hakkasan was founded a decade ago by Alan Yau, whose mission was to make Chinese food sexy and sophisticated. Yau sold his stake back in 2008, but the crusade to keep up the profile of Cantonese cuisine as worthy of serious attention continues. Hidden away in a secretive alley off Tottenham Court Road, Hakkasan has always been a magnet for celebs and trendy types. Once you're past the lurking chauffeurs and bouncers guarding the portal, the ambience within is that of a louche basement nightclub, with sepulchral lighting and a high-decibel vibe courtesy of the cocktail bar. A creative menu of new-wave and classic dishes covers every imaginable base, and then some, from an exhaustive compendium of dim sum, to 'small eat' ideas such as Jasmine tea-smoked organic pork ribs or roasted mango duck with lemon sauce. Main dishes worth a punt are roasted silver cod with champagne and Chinese honey, or stir-fried Welsh Black beef with pied bleu mushrooms in osmanthus flower wine. The cooking is good, the prices are high.