Hélène Darroze at The Connaught

Hélène Darroze refers to herself modestly as a 'cuisinière' - a cook. But don't be fooled by such charming self-effacement: she is a protégée of French super-chef Alain Ducasse, and has already made her bones in her own right at the helm of her eponymous Parisian Left Bank restaurant. A feminine touch informs the décor these days, courtesy of Paris-based designer India Mahdavi's furnishings, which add leavening to the clubby panelling, while a brace of Damien Hirst's spin paintings represents a further symbolic ousting of the old guard. Staffing, too, is almost exclusively cross-Channel, and runs at battalion strength to achieve the impeccably correct, relentlessly-attentive service required at this level of dining. Darroze's family produces its own Armagnac, so it is no surprise that her style is rooted in the peasant earthiness of her native Landes region of southwest France, where quality produce is revered. The menus are adorned with as many luxury items as an oligarch's wife, brought together with masterful classical French technique in a beguiling mix of subtle textures and head-spinning depth of flavour. Visual aesthetics are also top-level. The set lunch option with two glasses of wine, water and coffee offers remarkable value, particularly when it gets under way with an indulgent terrine of duck foie gras with Périgord black truffles, served with green apple and celeriac in truffled sour cream, followed by a roasted fillet of Basque pork teamed with bulgar risotto, fresh mango, palm heart and piquillo peppers, and coriander roasting jus. With a budget option like this, you can imagine what goes on in the 'Signature' tasting menu and à la carte. Scottish scallops are roasted in the shell and delivered with a parmesan emulsion and truffle, or blue lobster could appear with amande clams, scallops, green asparagus, shiitake mushrooms, and a self-consciously eclectic Vietnamese 'pho'-style lobster consommé. Main course could bring a multi-layered assemblage of Aberdeen angus beef, braised ox cheek with citrus and wild honey, caramelised celeriac, baby carrots, olive oil mashed potatoes, Teriyaki sauce and Stilton Chantilly, and to finish, the inspired finesse of a crystalised orange tuile filled with Samana chocolate cream and citrus sorbet, with Agen prune and Armagnac sauce. This is all punctuated by a never-ending procession of little treats, each morsel fashioned with the same immaculate attention to detail as the main events. The wine list is not for those of a nervous disposition, but if your finances are up to it, coverage of blue-blooded French and European heavyweights is outstanding.