Steeped in history, the hotel has played host to several heads of state and copious celebrities over its 100 years in business and it still exudes a great deal of confidence to this day. Many of the original art-deco features remain, lending elegance to the interior with a few modern twists to meet 21st-century expectations. And to prove it is not stuck in the past, Gordon Ramsay Holdings is in charge of the dining room, lavishly redesigned by New York architect Thierry Despont. He's reworked the 1930s look with its large lightshades, claret coloured chairs and etched glass panels and gold and toffee hued walls. Service is top class, while the large kitchen team create modern European food of considerable style and flair under the capable leadership of head chef Steve Allen. Start, perhaps, with a rich braised pork belly, partnered with langoustines, chargrilled asparagus and girolles, or Thai-spiced lobster ravioli with lemongrass, lime and coconut broth. Mains may feature fillets of John Dory with a passionfruit butter sauce, purple sprouting broccoli and puffed rice with smoky bacon. Do find a friend to share the caramelised apple tarte Tatin, served with rhubarb and vanilla cream, or go for a selection of superbly kept British and French cheeses. The wine list is big in scope and pricing with lots of interesting vintages along the way .