Foliage

The imposing Edwardian frontage with fluttering flags and liveried doormen on duty might give the impression of a five-star hotel from the old school. Think again. This imposingly luxurious Knightsbridge hotel, backing onto Hyde Park, is no dinosaur; from the cut of the staff's clothes to the no-expense-spared impact of the Foliage restaurant, this is a classy and contemporary destination. The park is the inspiration for the restaurant's name and look, but this is no theme park - striking flower displays, rosewood panelling and vast lit-glass panels filled with thousands of white silk leaves that change colour and mood, make for a calmly civilised and engaging space. The park itself can be seen through large picture windows. As we go to press, we hear that Chris Staines will be leaving during the life of this guidebook, and the exciting news that Foliage is the location where Heston Blumenthal will be opening his new London restaurant in the autumn of 2010. Meanwhile, Foliage continues to offer a fixed-price carte, good value fixed-price lunch and tasting menu, all based on exceptional produce and delivering an array of wonderfully creative dishes. Presentation provides real impact, as in a stunning first-course foie gras terrine served with apricots (chutney and purée), hazelnuts, port jelly and a cep brioche. An intermediate course (part of both lunch and dinner menus) might be red mullet, partnered with squid 'bolognese', confit potato and parmesan foam, before main-course partridge with luscious truffle polenta, pistachios, mushroom purée and a shallot tarte Tatin. The technical proficiency of the kitchen and its dynamically modern European intentions can be seen in an apple tarte Tatin dessert, which is a superbly creative interpretation. Service is five-star and not without a personal touch.

In Knightsbridge with Harrods on right, hotel is 0.5m on left, opposite Harvey Nichols
Nearest station: Knightsbridge

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